Prohibition Burgers
Los Angeles is teeming with fancy burgers right now – every block or so, in some areas, you can find a trendy gastropub touting itself the home of the best burger in LA. In the San Fernando Valley, though, the pickings are a bit slim. Sure, there’s Umami Burger in Studio City and Laurel Tavern by the CBS Radford Studios. But what about deeper in the Valley? Luckily, Prohibition Burgers has opened to fill the void.
Sparse wall decorations pointing to Prohibition-era legends, lots of open space, and super bright recessed pin lights make the red-painted walls feel a bit garish. However, there’s a decent selection of beers on tap, and a waitstaff that is friendly and knowledgeable. And with burgers like these, who cares about ambiance?
Tommy Garlic Fries
Garlic fries are, without a doubt, one of my favorite junk food treats ever. And they’re hard to get right – they can be too garlicky, too spicy, too soggy, too starchy. These were pretty tasty, with their perfectly crispy outside and light, almost hollow insides. Skinny and crunchy, even after sitting for a little while, they were accompanied by the standard ranch dressing. While I love the combination of garlic, fries, and ranch, I found the powdered garlic seasoning on the fries to be rather salty for my somewhat sensitive palate. All this before my palate was muddied by the bolder flavors of the burger, too! Alas, I guess I’ll have to try the mozzarella balls as my next side order…
John Dillinger
The John Dillinger burger, named for that infamous Chicago bank robber, is tasty enough to be a legend unto itself. A thick, medium-rare burger stacked high
with caramelized onions, applewood-smoked bacon, a trifecta of cheeses (Gruyere, mozzarella, and a slightly sharp white cheddar), and mixed baby greens is served on a toasted brioche bun reminiscent of Umami’s buttery bun, only toasted for a textural contrast that was more than welcome. The bacon is thick, with a chewy/crunchy mouth-feel and a salty smokiness that makes the high quality beef feel even richer. With peppery arugula to cut the succulent meaty flavors, this burger makes my mouth water just thinking about it. Yes, emphatically yes: this burger convinced me that the Valley is indeed capable of producing swoon-worthy food.
Prohibition Burger in Encino is, by far, one of my favorite joints in the Valley for its burgers and $7 drafts. Now all I have to do is figure out which side order will be my usual…
Prohibition Burgers & Beer
17620 Ventura Blvd., Encino, CA 91316
818-532-1815


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